Autor Tópico: Cinquecento Sport  (Lida 88028 vezes)

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darth vader

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« Responder #60 em: 28 de Outubro, 2006, 18:52:01 »
vai ser de uso diário.
tive é uma certa mudança ou espera no projecto pois a minha mãe não está muito bem e são muitos euros agora  :smasher:
mas vai ficar bonito  :d_naughty:  

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« Responder #61 em: 29 de Outubro, 2006, 04:55:23 »
tenho estado um pouco away do que por aqui se passa, mas digo.te tá ficando 5 stars  :love:  
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Registado Oficialmente nos Fiatistas!

darth vader

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« Responder #62 em: 04 de Novembro, 2006, 15:22:43 »
há-de ficar ! mas os euros neste momento sofreram uma queda. mas, próxima semana as jantes vão para braga  :d_evil:

são para ficarem assim  :love:  

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« Responder #63 em: 04 de Novembro, 2006, 21:38:20 »
ora bem, para a semana como dito acima as jantes vão  :d_evil:

a questão que estou a ponderar e é como o luke disse, volta á baila o motor 1242 do punto 75?/60?.

informações? : é tirar e por? os apoios do motor são os mesmos que tenho?
é troca por troca ou necessita de arranjos? (problemas electricos, bomba de água, radiador, ect... posso só trazer o motor em si despido de tudo ou tenho de trazer tudo?

o unico que sei é que enquanto o punto 75 chega ás 6500 o do sport vai ás 7000 e tenho de me por a pau com isso (ou mudo o conta rpm?)


informações técnicas please que isto é para andar  :yeah:

pessoal, nao inventem nada  :pimba: , preciso mesmo destas informações técnicas e rigorosas.

cumprimEntos e obrigado.

ps: a modificação do estofador é que fica nos 500/600 EUROS  :d_cry:
procuro novos preços  :d_cry:
« Última modificação: 04 de Novembro, 2006, 22:16:45 por darth vader »

LB

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« Responder #64 em: 04 de Novembro, 2006, 22:25:22 »
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ora bem, para a semana como dito acima as jantes vão  :d_evil:

a questão que estou a ponderar e é como o luke disse, volta á baila o motor 1242 do punto 75.

informações? : é tirar e por? os apoios do motor são os mesmos que tenho?
é troca por troca ou necessita de arranjos? (problemas electricos, bomba de água, radiador, ect... posso só trazer o motor em si despido de tudo ou tenho de trazer tudo?

o unico que sei é que enquanto o punto 75 chega ás 6500 o do sport vai ás 7000 e tenho de me por a pau com isso (ou mudo o conta rpm?)


informações técnicas please que isto é para andar  :yeah:

pessoal, nao inventem nada  :pimba: , preciso mesmo destas informações técnicas e rigorosas.

cumprimEntos e obrigado.

ps: a modificação do estofador é que fica nos 500/600 EUROS  :d_cry:
procuro novos preços  :d_cry:
É TIRAR E PÔR (PLUG AND PLAY)

Tem um senão: na zona onde se prende o motor de arranque (e o montares na caixa de velocidades que lá se encontra) terás de fazer uma peça para prender o motor de arranque apenas com 3 parafusos derivado a uma bossa do próprio motor que os 1000 e 1100 não têm.

Entretanto é obrigatório trazer desse motor que arranjas de 1242 a cablagem completa, a centralina e a cablagem da cave de ignição e a própria chave; SENÃO NÃO TRABALHA.

Para esse motor as medidas para "tuná-lo" é 0,2 na cabeça e 900 gr. no volante do motor; a arvore de cames pode ser encomendada a Itália ou Alemanha, para se transformar um pouco mais;

A saída de escape pode ser a de origem porque é boa, no entanto a nível de catalisador e panelas pode ser alterada (e deve).

Atenção ao radiador que deves montar outro um pouco maior;

Os discos de travão devem passar a ser ventilados ou raiados ou furados e com mandíbulas maiores, já para não falar da suspensão...

Para referência estive com dois motores destes em competição com o Engº Miguel no Grande Centro com um Panda 4x4 e estive com um outro de um colega meu que tem um Seicento com um motor 75 cv, mas que não se nota nada a olho nu..

Porque é que não falas com o próprio Engº Miguel da Fiat no Grande Centro?????

darth vader

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« Responder #65 em: 04 de Novembro, 2006, 23:47:47 »
suspensão eu já tenho :d_grin:


estou a ver que nao é pug and play como arrogam  :boxe:

é mais puxa de um lado e estica de outro  :deal:


Starting with a single point injection Cinquecento or Seicento sporting 1108cc

The easiest swap, and the most effective in terms of outlay, is to swap an 1108cc Sporting engine for a 1242cc 8 valve Punto 60 engine.

"Why not use the 75 engine?" I hear you cry.

The Punto 75 engine does look a better starting point than the 60 at first glance. It offers more bhp and torque, and it's the same size as the 60 engine, so why not use it?
Simple answer is that the cylinder head is designed to take the Punto 75 intake manifold with four fuel injectors as opposed to the Cento's one mounted in the throttle body. The bolt spacing on the head just doesn't match up, so your cento intake manifold and throttle body won't bolt up. You could fit the Punto 75 manifold, but to make it work with multi point injection you would need to have the Punto 75 ecu and engine bay wiring loom mated up to your cento - not too easy as the Punto ecu's sit on the opposite side of the engine bay. Getting the throttle cable matched up again might be tricky too.
The 75's ecu and injectors need to be supplied with between 2.5 and 3.5 bar of fuel pressure (depending on year of donor car) as opposed to the 1.0 bar that the Centos run at - something which you will need to address.
Bums.

The 75 engine has a slightly hotter cam than standard, allegedly the same as Novitec offer for 1108's as a fast road option. if you're keen you could buy a 75 engine then do a mix n'match - 75 engine block, Cento head and 75 cam.

edit: do not use the Punto 75 intake manifold with a SPI unit. I have it on good authority from Yannina and Smokeme who have tried it that this manifold is what's called a 'dry' one - it's not supposed to have fuel in it and it will suffer from fuel pooling and poor running. It will work, the car will run, but not at all well.


So it's the Punto 60 engine then?

For the easy swap, yes. Look for the engine codes which are dot stamped on the top of the water pump housing. You may need some emery cloth or similar to clean the face up in order to read them - you're looking at the flat horizontal piece on the left front of the engine (looking from the exhaust side) just above the water tube, next to the cam belt cover.

Engine ID codes:

Punto 60, up to 1997: 176.B1.000
Punto 60, from 1997 : 176.B4.000
Punto 75, all years : 176.A8.000
Punto 55 1108cc engine up to 1997: 176.A6.000
Punto 55 from 1997 / all Cento 1108 SPI: 176.B2.000

Go on then, how do I do it?

Easy way or hard way? Depends on the depth of your wallet and your spanner wielding ability. Let's not forget swearing performance too, this is almost as important as having the car in the first place. Inventive language always helps the job go smoothly, and reduces pain and swelling when you seriously batter yourself when the spanner slips. I can testify to this, but would also advise that the profanity should ideally cease if you get to the stage of needing a mother or elderly neighbour to transport you to the local infirmary. The proliferation of vulgarity seems to have an enraging effect on the good samaritan roughly proportional to the calming effect on yourself.

I seem to be digressing.

Easy way: Pay a mechanic. Bank on roughly a full day's labour plus parts.

Hard way: Do it yourself.

I'll take the hard way. What do I do?

First, get yourself an engine. Check local breakers, free papers, ebay, Fiat Forum etc. Check the engine code when you get there to make sure it's the right one. Ideally you want to make sure it's a good'un, so do some maintenance while it's on the garage (or mum's kitchen) floor. It's so much easier to do when it's out of the car than to fit it, then find it's no good, then repair it in situ. Things you could change:

Head gasket, plus check the head and block faces - have it skimmed if needs be.
Crank oil seal, both ends.
Camshaft oil seal, pulley end.
Water pump.
The following aren't optional, but essential in my view:
Clutch, complete. Note that the Punto 55, 60, 75 and Cento 1108 share the same clutch.
Thermostat.
Cam belt.
Cam belt tensioner pulley.
Cam cover gasket.

So, you're ready now. Engine's sitting there teasing you and you're ready to rock n' roll. What else do you need to get?

Oil (Fiat recommends 15w40) pref. part or fully synthetic.
Oil filter.
Antifreeze, 2 litres will give you a 50:50 mix which is fine.
Engine hoist - from around £20 a day hire.
New spark plugs - everyone will give you their best recommendation, it's your choice.
Roll of masking tape and a pen - invaluable. Mark up everything you remove so you know where it goes when you put it back.

How do I fit it?

Buy a Haynes or Porter manual. The procedure is covered quite well in there.
Potted version:
Drain oil and water - dispose of in an environmentally friendly manner.
Remove exhaust manifold and front pipe/cat section.
Remove intake manifold and throttle body.
Remove gear linkages - unbolt the front one and pop the balljoint of the rear one.
Remove the speedo cable from the gearbox end.
Remove driveshafts from gearbox? Naaaah, lets do it the easy way:
- Jack up the car and support it so the front bumper is approx. as high off the ground as your new engine is tall. Remove the front wheels.
- Undo the lower strut to hub bolts on both sides.
- Remove the inner CV boot securing clips on the big ends.
- Pull back the hubs and disengage the tripods on the shafts from the cv joint outers.
- Bag up the open ends of the joints so they don't get mucky. Carrier bags and tape will do nicely.
- Remove clutch cable, any remaining water hoses and wires connected to the engine. Check for earth leads etc.
- Support the engine with the hoist.
- Undo the mounts and drop the engine and 'box tothe floor, carefully.
- Separate engine and gearbox
- Put gearbox on new engine (Don't get them mixed up, would be a terrible disappointment)
- Put engine and box back in, reconnect / refill everything. Cento starter and alternator will fit just fine.

Any sticking points?

Some tiddly, one a bit bigger.
You need to use the Cento crank position sensor, Cento oil pressure switch complete with long hollow bolt and 90' elbow.

The exhaust won't fit. You need to either have the front pipe cut and extended by 15mm to get it on, or make a spacer to go between the front pipe and manifold. If you do this, you will also need longer bolts or studs fitting to the manifold to connect it all up.
You can either use the flange cut from an old front pipe, or have one made up. If you have access to facilities, it's not difficult to do - use a gasket as a template. Alternatively, an engineering shop may make you one up.

Right, it's in - what now?

Don't go mad straight away. Fill the sump with fresh oil, put water and antifreeze in the cooling system, put the new plugs in. Make sure everything that you've touched is tightened up and reconnected.
Start the engine but don't rev it. If the oil pressure light doesn't go out within a few seconds, stop the engine and check.
If it does start and the oil light is out, let it tick over until warm. Keep checking for leaks etc. You will get some smells and a little smoke from oily handprints burning off manifolds etc., don't worry. Plumes of smoke are a bad sign, as is fire. Do stop if this happens. Bleed the cooling system via the screws.

Look, it's in and ok, can I go now?

Yep, go on then. Go steady for the first couple of miles - ideally do a mile or two 'shakedown run' and return to base. Check for leaks, check out any problems now.

If everything is ok, then go for a drive. The ecu is an adaptive system, within limits it can adjust on the fly to the new engine. It may take as long as 300 miles to fully settle in.

The new engine will feel different. The power curve is shifted down the rev range, there's more to be had at lower revs than before. Cruising around is more relaxed and easier with less gearchanging needed. There really isn't any need to rev it into the red, you won't gain anything and will shorten engine life. Also bear in mind that the Puntos are rev limited to 6500, but the Cinq ecu will let it go to 7000 - so it's not too good an idea to go hitting it.

I have a 1242 Cinq, and have managed 17.8 seconds 1/4 mile against a standard car at 20 seconds. Modified 1108's tend to run 18.5 seconds or more. Might not sound like much, but at 80mph across the finish line, 0.7 seconds is a good few car's lengths! On a private track you understand, I have seen the needle all the way to the end of the speedo.

I also have a 1242cc turbo, bought as an 1108cc Van Aaken turbo car and converted. If you fancy copying this, it'll do the 1/4 mile in mid 16's. Goes like stink, but needs a speedo which reads higher
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« Última modificação: 04 de Novembro, 2006, 23:50:09 por darth vader »

darth vader

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« Responder #66 em: 04 de Novembro, 2006, 23:49:13 »
pug and play o caraças!!! :aviso:

aiai,


o trabalho pela frente....



irá compensar :yeah:  

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« Responder #67 em: 04 de Novembro, 2006, 23:59:00 »
Citar
pug and play o caraças!!! :aviso:

aiai,


o trabalho pela frente....



irá compensar :yeah:
O trabalho até é simples, tens é que substituir peças por outras.

Já te disse: fala com o Engº da FIAT

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« Responder #68 em: 05 de Novembro, 2006, 00:02:18 »
:t_up:  

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« Responder #69 em: 05 de Novembro, 2006, 01:40:00 »
quanto a um fazer menos rotação que o outro... acoh que tu vais corrigir isso não? :d_evil:
Piccole: Uno -> 127 -> 127 -> 127 -> Ritmo -] X1/4 AB / X1/9 1500 / Uno GPL
Grandi: 125 -> Dedra -> Thema -> Tempra -> Prisma / Thema / Croma

darth vader

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« Responder #70 em: 05 de Novembro, 2006, 10:46:33 »
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quanto a um fazer menos rotação que o outro... acoh que tu vais corrigir isso não? :d_evil:
 :point:  (lol)  

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« Responder #71 em: 05 de Novembro, 2006, 10:53:22 »
e não é o punto 75 mas o 60  :d_roll:  

LB

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« Responder #72 em: 05 de Novembro, 2006, 12:55:40 »
dá uma olhada a estes sites, para ver transformações nestes motores

http://www.fiatracing.com/

http://members.aol.com/fiatracing/

http://www.redlineracing.org.uk/frames.html



E já agora:

Sensible Tuning Modifications.
The site author's view on tuning modifications and their ultimate cost.

Having watched the tuning market in the U.K. expand over the last fifteen years or so we are now in a situation where there are many, many parts available for Italian cars where a decade or so ago there were virtually none 'great' I hear you say ! but wait a minute before you race off and order truck loads of gear, it could be costing you more than you actually realise. Firstly have you considered the Insurance impact of modifying a car from standard ? most insurers will not even consider such things, so before committing to any mods call them and ask, it could be the cheapest phone call you ever make and don't ignore the fact either as you could find your policy is voided by any changes from standard. Secondly you may well be de-valuing your car, body kits are not to everyone's taste, and also would you have considered buying a modified version of your car before you had even owned the standard model, how could you ensure the modifications had been carried out correctly? Thirdly and by far the most important in the U.K. if the car has been modified will it now pass the MOT test legally, the latest guidelines in Britain require the car to conform to its original emissions rating narrowing the field of engine modifications to almost nil beyond induction filters, exhausts and maybe ECU chip conversions at the extreme, just imagine having to take off all the tuning equipment you had just fitted because it had made the car illegal to use on the road, believe me it could quite easily happen and the existence of computer technology at the test garage means no more 'bent' MOT's either, so there is no way out.

However, that said, there are some sensible modifications that could with minimal outlay, bring horsepower increases.
1: Air Filter. Either a panel filter which will give 1-2 horsepower (cost £25) or a simple induction kit which will give 3-4 horsepower by replacing the standard restrictive intake tubing and bolting directly onto the injector housing (cost £50) or even a full induction kit which has tubing which separates the filter from the injector housing by a tuned length and may give 5-6 horsepower (cost £150 perhaps).
2: Exhaust. A stainless Cat-back system will release 4-5 horsepower (cost £250) and will have the bonus of probably outlasting the car and paying for itself by negating any further exhaust bills.
3: ECU Chip. A replacement ECU Chip if used in conjunction with the above items could free up a massive 7-8 horsepower (cost £150-£200), but (I am told) can have the drawback of making the car a little undrivable especially in stop/start traffic situations, alternatively to have a chip designed specially for your needs select this link
4: Fully synthetic Oil. Oils such as Mobil1 or similar can give small gains over the mineral based standard oils used, the main bonus being that the oil will not break down under almost any condition giving 100% protection for your engine well worth considering in the long term, don't be put off by the possible 1 horsepower gain you will get by using it (cost £20-£30 per 4 litres).
5: Platinum or Split-Fire Spark plugs with high performance plug-leads. High performance spark plugs will give marginally more efficient combustion over the standard item but will add to the overall horsepower gain, if once again used with all the above components (cost £20-£50).
6: Higher Octane Fuel or Octane booster. 98 Octane fuel (Super Unleaded) will give a small power increase if the car is set up to use it all the time at the expense of a large dent in you wallet (cost 80p per litre plus rolling road charge to set engine up for usage).

By applying all of the above and having the car set up on a rolling road you might come away with something near 70 horsepower but more like 65-66hp for £600 outlay. There are, of course the usual ways to get the most from your car like ensuring the tyre pressures are correct and thus achieving minimal rolling resistance and of course polishing your car to a fine shine giving a reduced wind resistance, you may laugh but when did you last see a dirty racing car ? on a Mini for instance the difference between dirty and clean can mean 3 to 4 mph to top end speed according to the MIRA wind tunnel team.

Some Cinq sites on the net even (somewhat hilariously) go as far as suggesting polishing your inlet/exhaust manifold internally and also the remainder of tubing all the way to the back box, this might work on racing cars but is going just a little too far for use on the road.

I have been asked on many occasions about suspension mods what works and what does'nt etc, my suggestion on an ideal setup for the road is this, -25mm springs with Koni adjustable dampers and an uprated anti-roll bar, my car was fitted (as you may have read) with Pi springs (from MBG) these are totally unsuitable for use on the road as they rob the car of suspension travel and are far too stiff for comfortable travel even on the smoothest of tarmac ! I feel they would be much better suited to a sprint or hill-climb car with only occasional road use don't be conned into buying a set I am not the only person to find this out, -25mm is the max. Uprated anti-roll bars don't come without their penalties either a change from the standard setting will make the steering heavier at low speed and also increse tyre wear they do however stabilise the car very well and control body roll admirably. Insurance company responses on suspension mods vary so much that some will just ask you to send the reciepts for the parts (and increase your policy by a percentage of the cost) others will just not insure you, so ask first before diving in with both feet!

And finally......
.....There is of course the ultimate performance add-on which will give you faster 0-60's and higher top speeds for probably less money than all of these mods...... the ultimate performance upgrade being of course...... a new, faster, more powerful car...... always worth considering as an option before starting to tune or modify any vehicle.



 

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« Responder #73 em: 05 de Novembro, 2006, 12:56:55 »
e vai daí:


Tuning
There are a limited number of easy to fit bolt-on parts for the Cinquecento which will improve the driveability, performance and handling. These are mostly aimed at the Sporting model, but many can be fitted to any version.
There are three main areas to concentrate on, the engine (and transmission), the brakes and the suspension and then various other details. These three should be done together since they complement each other, not all of one and none of another !
1. The engine.
Before modifying the engine it is worthwhile filling it with a good quality synthetic oil and fitting new spark plugs. An engine oil additive may also be used.
The first improvements are relatively simple. The air filter can be replaced for an aftermarket item which will help the engine breathe more freely, the 'induction kit' (as they are known) type are the best - these replace the standard airbox to further help the breathing, and the exhaust can be replaced for one which will restrict the exit of the gases less. It is best to replace the whole system, and not just the rear section, for improved performance. Stainless steel systems last longer, but if you paint a normal steel system with some heat resistant paint it will also last a good length of time. Removing the catalyst will give a large increase in power, but in most countries this is illegal - and pretty bad for our (already mostly destroyed) environment. It is also possible to buy 4-2-1 manifolds which will help liberate some power.
The most effective modification (short of engine rebuilds!) is probably to replace the electronic control unit (or 'chip'). A variety of these are available, but all should increase the power and improve the driveability. The downside is that these usually cancel the warranty and may affect the durability of the engine, the emissions and the fuel consumption. A larger injector can also be fitted and will, together with the new module and a reprofiled camshaft, significantly improve the power output.
Other things to do should include fitting a cold air intake, a large diameter pipe (minimum 5cm) to provide air from outside the engine bay to the air filter. The exhaust manifold can also be lagged with thermal cloth or tape to keep the exhaust gases hotter (and thus reduce back pressure) and also to keep the underbonnet (and hence intake and fuel) temperatures lower.
The high tension leads can also be replaced with performance ones.
Further modifications can include gas flowing the cylinder head and inlet manifold, but since these are not normally DIY jobs they will not be dealt with here. After completing all the above (!) it may be worth fitting an oil cooler. If overheating is a problem due to the increased power output then a small hole can also be drilled through the plate in the thermostat.
Regarding the transmission the main requirement is to uprate the clutch to handle the increase in power and torque achieved though the engine modifications. Friction plates can be purchased with improved materials and heavier duty pressure plates are also available. Whilst doing this it is worthwhile lightening the flywheel.
Another option is to install a turbocharger. If the compression ratio is dropped to around 8.5:1 (from the standard 9.6:1) ten a boost of 0.7 bar can be used, which, combined with an intercooler, thicker head gasket, conical air filter, fifth injector and aftermarket injection module, can produce around 110bhp.
2. The brakes.
Initially it is relatively easy to replace the brake discs with drilled and grooved items, and the pads for a harder compound. The latter should not be too hard (ie no race pads on the road) or they will not function effectively at the normal 'road' operating temperatures. Stainless steel braided flexible hoses will improve the pedal feel and reduce the chance of damage whilst DoT5 fluid (not silicon) will increase the temperature at which it can operate effectively. If the brakes are getting too hot the dustguards can be removed and/or ducts fitted, taking air from behind the front bumper.
If more serious braking is required the next modification would be to increase the disc size. It is possible to use larger discs with a bracket allowing use of the production callipers, or alloy four pot callipers can be fitted.
In order to improve the balance of the car under braking it is desireable to be able to adjust the balance of braking from front to rear (and vice versa). This can be accomplished by fitting a bias valve in the line to the rear brakes, usually in a position so that it can be reached from the drivers seat.
3. The suspension.
The easiest improvement,and the one which will probably bring the single most noticeable change, is to replace the full set of dampers and springs. A variety of kits are available which include four matched dampers and springs. Top adjustable units are compromised, but are good for road and track day cars since it allows the suspension to be adjusted between these two, rather different, requirements. Coil over units add more adjustability and can be purchased outright, or can be made from standard dampers by welding a threaded sleeve to the standard tube.
There are then two other main suspension aims; to reduce the flexiblity in the suspension and to increase the stiffness of the car, both of which aim at more accurate control of the wheel movement. To reduce the flexibility it is possible to fit nylon bushes instead of the normal production rubber items, or if perfection is desired the suspension can be fitted with metallic bearings (rose joints / rod ends). Spherical bearing top mounts can also be used. To stiffen the car it is most popular to fit strut braces. These can be fitted to the front and rear. For more extreme cases a rollcage can be fitted.....
Into this category also fall the choice of wheels and tyres. With an increase in power it can be necessary to fit larger tyres (thus requiring larger wheels) but the temptation to fit the biggest possible should be resisted. Consideration should be given to fitting a wider tyre on the front (since they provide traction and steering) but keeping the standard, or a wider but not as wide as the front, tyre at the rear. This will improve the balance of the car.
4. other things.
It is possble to fit the six speed gearbox from the Punto into the Cnquecento, which gives closer ratios (sixth gear is almost the same as the standard Cinq fifth). Other modifications worth considering include fitment of a shift light (and rev limiter if there is not one as standard), higher power bulbs in the headlights (if you are going to go faster you need to see further) and installation of a quicker steering rack.
Some inspiration..... if you really want to go all out, then look at the Cinquecento Sporting rally cars. These have a variety of modifications, some of which can be seen in the picture.
 

darth vader

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« Responder #74 em: 05 de Novembro, 2006, 20:39:02 »
hum :love:

tanta informação boa a assimilar.

thanks luigi  :t_up: